Stromberg OF.com
strombergof.com

Rebuilding, buying & selling bronze era Stromberg Carburetors as well as most other brands of the teens & twenties.

Modern needle & seat conversions for all bronze Strombergs, Kingston 4 Ball, Zenith & others.
Vintage - Antique - Classic

Stromberg Model OF for Model T Ford, RF for Model T Ford,
LF for Model T Ford,
LB-1, LB-2, OE-1, OE-2, OS-1, OS-2, OX-2, MX-2, MX-3 & others including U & J, Kingston 4 & 5 ball,
Zenith, Rayfield AND MANY MORE!  
CALL ME, I MIGHT HAVE WHAT
YOU ARE LOOKING FOR.  
I SELDOM HAVE TIME TO UPDATE THESE PAGES  

Stan Howe
Brass Carburetors
4433 Red Fox Dr 
Helena, Mt 59602
USA

 406-949-3448 cell 
email: stanhowemt@aol.com

June 23, 2017
As of June 30, 2017 I will be making some changes in my carburetor business.  I will not be taking in any new repair work to be completed before November 1, 2017.   I need to get caught up in the shop -- and have many other business and personal interests that also need my attention.  

After about 15 years of this, I still like doing the rebuilding and turning a piece of brass into a functioning part of an antique automobile, truck or tractor.  However, this is not a modern repair shop where there are parts on the shelf.  This is a restoration service which sometimes requires me to spend hours and hours to make one small part or tearing down half a dozen parts carbs to find one needed part.  It is very time consuming.  I also test run and adjust virtually every carburetor to make sure it will work as expected when delivered.  

I can not and do not promise any return dates.  You can request that I get your work done when you want it but that means someone else is waiting for theirs.  

If you need a carb rebuilt be aware that it will not be back on your schedule, it will be back when I can get it done.  I am still working on a back log from 2016 and earlier.

In 2016 I got 16 carburetors in from a museum and 7 others for rebuild in one week.  I have carburetors in museums and collections all over the world but make them wait like everybody else.  

 At this point I am caught up to where I have about 15 or 20 to get done and in the mail and I will be pretty much caught up.  I may or may not accept any more work at that point.  I am old, getting older every day and every year and like most people, I am not as healthy 40 years ago when I was 35 and could work all day and night day after day.  I also have three other businesses including owning one of Montana's largest auction companies and have a couple girls and a college age boy I am helping raise.  They and their activities interest me and I will continue to attend their school activities, play music together and spend time with them doing other things -- helping them rebuild their 1948 CJ2A Jeep, teaching them to drive, etc.  

I do not know of anyone else who does this work on brass carburetors so have no where else to send you. 

Also, be aware that I no longer work on ANY Model T Ford carburetors newer than the Holley G.  I do work on the early Holleys for pre-T and early T Fords, Kingston ball types and the Holley G's.  I started this business pretty much by accident when I bought a Model T with a Stromberg OF that leaked like a sieve but ran well.  I fixed it, sold the car, bought another OF, fixed it etc.  I have now done well over 1,000 of those and will continue to buy, rebuild and sell those as I have time.  (As some of you may know, I spent over 40 years following in my father and grandfathers' footsteps as a violin repairman and maker.  Another grandfather was a jeweler and they were all farmers so I grew up working on anything that needed fixing.)

In mid July I hope to have a list of carburetors for sale from my extensive inventory and collection. I have several hundred carburetors in stock as well as one of the more extensive Model T Ford Accessory Carburetor collections.  Pretty much everything is for sale. 

 If you wish to be notified send me an email at stanhowemt@aol.com and I will notify you when it is available.  

If you have a carburetor here and do not wish to wait any longer let me know and I will either get it done and to you or send it back with your payment.   But do not call me, especially when you are drunk on a Sunday afternoon and start ranting at me.  I will not tolerate that. Period. A recent episode of that was the impetus for this change in my business and this notification.  

Thank you for 15 years of business.  However, please do not send me any carburetor without calling or emailing me and making sure we are on the same page for return times and that there will be extra charges for missing major parts, badly damaged castings, etc.  I also will no longer spend half a day disassembling a rusted, corroded, dented carburetor with missing and damaged parts and then have you tell me "The wife won't let me spend that much money on it, just send it back and I'll fix it myself"  and expect me to deliver it to your son that happens to be in Helena on a Sunday morning so you don't have to pay return shipping.  The law of the west is to check your purse before you order a round for the house.  That is what it will be here from now on.  I deal with customers and have plenty of work from people who are willing to pay for my time and expertise, I don't need that kind of people wasting my time.  

I regret that I can no longer spend hours on the phone or answering emails every day giving advice on carburetors - rebuilding - etc.  I will also no longer be buying much inventory.  Send me an email with photos if you wish but I may not be able to answer it as soon as you wish.  
Stan Howe, Helena, Montana.  
Stanhowemt@aol.com 406-949-3448  

Below is from earlier in 2017.  
I am back in the shop and working every day, rebuilding and selling carburetors.  I got a lot done over the winter but am ALWAYS behind.  I am working on the back log of repairs and for the most part, try to get them out in the order they came in.  This time of year I am getting a lot of work in so it will be some time before you get your carb back if you send it in.  I try to get orders out for carbs that are sold as soon as possible but have NO stock of rebuilts on the shelf ready to go, all the ones I rebuilt over the winter have already sold and either are gone or will be within a few weeks.  
New arrivals, special interest and rare carbs are on the SPECIAL CARBS FOR SALE tab, click it to see what I have. 
You can call me at 406-949-3448 or email me at stanhowemt@aol.com.  I try to answer every call as it comes in but you may have to leave me a message.  I will call you back as soon as possible and answer emails as soon as I can get a minute or two to do so.

Thank you for the support of this little one old man business.   


Thanks, Stan Howe

CLICK ON THE LINK TITLES IN THE TAN BOX BELOW
TO GO TO THE OTHER PAGES.
IF YOU HAVE A MINUTE BE SURE TO CHECK THE 
SPECIAL CARBS FOR SALE PAGE.  INTERESTING THINGS THERE.  MOST OF THOSE CARBS SELL SO QUICKLY I CAN'T KEEP UP WITH PHOTOS OF THEM.  I AM AMAZED AT ALL THE DIFFERENT DESIGNS.
 
ALL PHOTOS ON THIS SITE ARE COPYRIGHTED AND ARE NOT TO BE COPIED AND USED FOR ANY OTHER PURPOSE THAN PERSONAL REFERENCE.  DO NOT USE THESE PHOTOS FOR YOUR EBAY LISTINGS. 
For permission to use photos in publications please contact me. Printed information on this site is not to be quoted in ebay ads or other sales venues without permission from me.  I have not in the past and do not not endorse any other repair facility.  



PRICES AND INFORMATION
FOR REBUILD PRICING SCROLL DOWN
JANUARY 1, 2016
Note that this pricing page takes precedence over any prices listed on the various pages.  I've tried to catch all the pricing on pages and remove it but may have missed some. These are the correct & current prices.   

CURRENT PRICING FOR REBUILT CARBURETORS AS OF JANUARY 1 2016 - PRICES ARE OUTRIGHT SALE, NO CORE NEEDED. 
  
Call to confirm I have the model you need in stock as some are very hard to find.  I do not have ANY rebuilt and ready to go, I can usually do one in a few days but I have so much rebuild business I do not have time to keep rebuilt and ready to go carbs in stock. 


STROMBERG OF        $650

STROMBERG RF        $625

STROMBERG OE-1    $750

STROMBERG OE-2    $850

STROMBERG 0-2  -  $850

Stromberg OT-2     $1000

Stromberg OT-3      $1000

STROMBERG OD-1    $750

STROMBERG OX-2    $900

STROMBERG OS-1    $750

STROMBERG OS-2    $900

STROMBERG M-1, M-2, M-3 $550 

STROMBERG M-4      $750 

STROMBERG MB-1    $750

STROMBERG OE-3; O-3 $1000

OTHER STROMBERG PRICES ON REQUEST. 


KINGSTON 4 BALL  $550 

KINGSTON 5 BALL   $1500 FOR MODEL T FORD

KINGSTON 5 BALL  NON-MODEL T -- SEVERAL OTHER 5 BALL IN STOCK in various sizes and mounting styles - CALL FOR INVENTORY AND PRICE.

HOLLEY G  Brass -- $550

HOLLEY G  Cast iron w/black powder coat  $500 

Holley S - correct for late 12, early 13 - this is the one with the vertical choke shaft, arm on top of the inlet.  $800

HOLLEY NH $275 

RAYFIELD SIDE DRAFT FOR MODEL T FORD $750-$1000

RAYFIELD various models side and updraft including two NOS updrafts.  Call for pricing. 

ZENITH S4BF  $750 to $1000 WITH MANIFOLD (call for more info)

ZENITH S04    $450 NO MANIFOLD - ORIGINAL on Chevrolet but work well on T engines. Must be used on Model T Ford engines with a special manifold.  Similar to the S4BF but smaller capacity.  Good way to get a little more Zoom for not a lot of bucks.  

MAYER FOR MODEL T FORD  $500-$750 with V manifold

U & J - $1000 -
with manifold and our newly reproduced dash choke control,cast in beautiful yellow brass from a new old stock original. Also includes the special throttle connection rod. See the more recent rebuilds page for photos and info.   

I have many, many other carburetors for sale, call or email with your needs. 

REBUILD PRICING --  Scroll down to the bottom of this page for specifics.  

Mail with a check or money order for the rebuild amount + $20 return shipping in US or get a quote to your country and include that:

Stan Howe
Brass Carburetors
4433 Red Fox Dr
Helena, Montana 59602

Turnaround time is usually two weeks to a month, some times of the year it can run two to three months.  This is a small shop run by one old man.  

Rebuild must be paid for before I start working on it.  You can Paypal money if you prefer but I do not take credit cards and do not have time to do billing or payments spread out over time. 

THESE PRICES ARE IF THE CARB IS BASICALLY COMPLETE.  MAJOR PARTS THAT ARE MISSING WILL BE CHARGED IN ADDITION TO THESE PRICES. ALL ARE IN ADDITON TO $20 RETURN SHIPPING AND INSURANCE IN THE US, $30 TO CANADA, $50 ELSEWHERE

REMOVE ANY SPECIAL CONNECTION FITTINGS BEFORE SHIPPING. 

STROMBERG REBUILDS INCLUDE: cleaning, Viton tipped float needle with replaceable brass seat, new throttle and choke shafts if needed, all screws and nuts replaced with stainless steel, powder coating steel parts as needed, leak tested and test run on 134 cubic inch engine and adjusted.  New float is NOT included nor are other missing parts EXCEPT the float cover cap. Depending on the style, floats are $50 - 100 in addition to the rebuild.  

Missing choke parts are individually priced, float bowl cover replacement is not included in rebuild price, a replacement is $50. Call for prices.  The only way I can obtain many parts is to buy a complete replacement carburetor.  Nearly every Stromberg takes a different high speed adjustment needle, there are 5 different low speed needles, every one has a different economizer tip and rod, etc.  I charge for these parts if they are missing or damaged beyond repair.  

A note about needle and seat conversions:  Most older needle and seat sets are so worn it is easier to convert the system to a modern style needle and seat.  I use two basic products to do these conversions.  The one I use the most comes from a Ford Tractor Schebler carburetor.  It has a brass seat with a brass Viton tipped needle.  The other is an Edelbrock performance set that is similar.  I machine the inlet to use one or the other of these sets.  They are removable and replaceable.  I can supply a replacement set that will fit and work without returning the carburetor.  The seat SCREWS in, no JB Weld here.  Also, my design PULLS the needle off the seat as opposed to relying on the fuel pressure to do it.  

If it is not practical to put in this type of needle and seat set I can machine a set to fit.  I make many of the seats due to odd sizes and threads and can grind needles to fit.  I can also custom make sets for carbs that no replacement set is available for.  

Many of the carbs I work on have been worked on many times by who knows and many of them will not flow fuel due to the needle being too heavy, stuck, etc.  


 
Standard rebuild:

STROMBERG OF - $400 

Stromberg RF - $400 includes new idle jet & powder coating body and bowl black.  

 
STROMBERG OE-1 - $500

Stromberg 0E-2, 0X-2, 0X-3, $600, includes new accelerating venturi if needed.

STROMBERG OD-1, OS-1, 0S-2, M-1, M-2, M-3, M-4, $500, includes new accelerating venturi if needed. 

Other Strombergs -- call for pricing. I also rebuild the cast iron Strombergs in the S, SF, U1, U-2, U-3 series.  Rebuild price is nominal $500 with additional charges for missing parts, etc.  The U series for Franklin often needs a new accelerator pump machined.  This adds $100, the main jet is often broken beyond repair and a new one must be machined, etc.  Price is quoted after carb is received.  


OTHER BRAND REBUILDS - Includes:
cleaning, modern float needle with replaceable seat, new Silicon Bronze or Naval Brass (not soft Brass) throttle and choke shafts if needed, powder coating steel parts as needed, test run on 134 cubic inch engine and adjusted. New float is NOT included nor are other missing parts unless noted in individual listing.

ZENITH S4BF - $500 includes new aluminum Venturi, Viton needle and brass seat, powder coating intake manifold.
 
ZENITH 04 - $350 includes new Venturi, Viton needle and brass seat. 

Zenith various models, brass side or updraft.  $400 AND UP includes new aluminum Venturi, etc. 

KINGSTON 4 BALL - any size - includes conversion to modern needle & seat, new float, ball seats machined to stop the air leaks that cause hard starting and rough idle, correct size & weight balls, bowl straightened and machined to stop the leaks that plague the 4 ball, silicon bronze throttle shaft with carb body holes bushed and centered in bore, new mixture adjustment rod with correct 1/4 x 32 threads and correct length of threaded area on rod,  $450
If new mixture knob is needed -- $50 upcharge.   total of $500 with knob. 

Knobs are machined from hard brass with correct knurling pattern for the 4 ball.  New ball caps or inlet cap are $25 each, machined from 360 brass with correct size threads, etc.  

Kingston 5 ball - same as above, $500 & up.  

Holley 2 screw - $500, I do not have new bowls, your bowl must be good for the carb to be rebuilt. 
M
odern needle & seat conversion, surfaces re-machined to stop air leaks, which is why most of these don't run well. New float included if needed. New correct 1/4 x 32 thread adjustment rod if needed.  New mixture knob is $50 upcharge.
 


Holley G Brass - $450 - New Aluminum Venturi, modern needle & seat conversion, new float, surfaces re-machined to stop air leaks - which is why most of these don't run well - new correct 1/4 x 32 adjustment rod with correct top connector. Bowl straightened and machined. 
 
Holley G cast iron - same, body and bowl powder coated black.  

Holley H-1 - this is the early one with the inlet up on the main body.  They are different than either the earlier or later Holley carbs that look similar.  My rebuild gets a new throttle arm, a new needle and seat of my own design that works flawlessly, a new custom made float, etc.  These are time consuming to work on but when correct they are a very good carb and correct for the 1912 Model T.  $600 

Holley NH - Needle and seat, all new brass parts including drain plug, ID tag, etc., body and bowl powder coated, $225  

Schebler - Model R includes needle & seat conversion, new float, new air valve leather of correct thickness, new springs as necessary.  $500

U & J - $500 includes float, Viton needle and seat & converted to Holley G float bowl as nearly every U & J bowl is cracked or will crack in use.  Brass bowl if I have one available, steel powder coated black is the option.  

Rayfield - $400 and up.  There are a lot of different models of Rayfield, the UF for Model T is $400 as are the other side draft models.  Call


OTHER PRICES ON APPLICATION.
CALL 406-949-3448 FOR PRICING AND FOR REBUILD INFORMATION.
EMAIL:STANHOWEMT@AOL.COM




The Stromberg OF Carburetor is the best accessory carburetor ever produced for the Model T Ford that is still fairly readily available and for which parts can be manufactured.  Most of the early accessory carbs have a variation on the "wick in a puddle of gas" design; the OF has a true idle circuit and a variable main jet that allows for varying engine speeds and load conditions without readjusting the needles.  Once adjusted, they run very well, start very well due to the smaller venturi and make better mileage than most because of the excellent atomization of fuel.  Stromberg sold hundreds of thousands of them in the day, with the rising price of bronze and the introduction of the vaporizer manifold by Ford, the OF was taken off the market & replaced by the RF which is also a very nice carburetor but hard to find and hard to work on due to their being made of soft aluminum.  There are still some OF's around and are still the best all-around carb you can run on a Model T.  Being brass, they look good on any year of Ford but particularly on the early brass cars. 

No needle and seat set can shut off dirty gas, rust, junk, hair or threads in the fuel.  There MUST BE a sediment bowl type of filter on early cars to remove crud from the gas before it reaches the carburetor. A glass bowl type filter (sediment bowl) should be mounted just prior to the carburetor. They are available at most parts stores or farm stores in the tractor parts section.  The last one I bought was about $15.  Cheap insurance.
I recommend a shutoff prior to the sediment bulb so the fuel can be turned off and the glass bowl removed from the unit for cleaning.

The 26/7 cars can use a paper type filter.  Some OF's have a screen before the needle and seat and some don't but even on those that do the screen is quite coarse and will allow small things through that will plug the seat or cause it to not shut completely off.

NO gravity feed fuel system should rely on the needle and seat to shut off fuel.  A fuel shutoff is cheap insurance against fuel leaks and fires. 

If you don't want to raise the hood every time to shut the fuel off and turn it back on,  electric shutoffs are available that will run  on a small battery that you probably already have on board to run your turn signals, etc., if you have an early non-generator T; or that will hook right into you battery system if you have a later car.  These are available from farm tractor stores for about $30. 


There are five main problems with the OF that need to be addressed in any rebuild.

1.  The needle and seat set wears over time to the point it will not shut off the flow of gas to the fuel bowl causing running over of the fuel bowl, especially when parked.  It also causes flooding and too rich mixture when running and hard starting due to the area between the venturi lip and the intake manifold filling with raw gas.  

My solution:  I manufacture an adapter which allows the use of a modern Viton tipped needle with a modern brass seat.  It fits in place of the original seat & needle rod and shuts the fuel off positively.  This needle and seat is available at virtually any parts store should it need replacement.  I also have them available as just the needle and seat set or with the adapter. 

2.  The idle jet has a hole of .026 (twenty six thousanths).  It sets at the lowest point in the fuel circuit and is almost always plugged in unrestored carbs.  It is the main cause of failure to idle correctly or evenly regardless of idle screw & idle mixture adjustments.  

My solution:  I remove and clean the idle jet and idle jet passage.  About half I get in must must be drilled out because of too many years of varnish and crud buildup in the passage or somebody breaking it off or ruining the threads.  I manufacture new idle jets. 

3.  The small brass plugs on the side of the carb which close the drill holes for the fuel passages can leak, especially if they have been removed & replaced.  If they leak, I replace the bottom two or three.

My solution:  I replace leaking brass plugs with a button type Allen head screw and a nylon washer.  The seats are milled flat.  This make a positive seal and also makes it easy to remove the plugs to clean passages or find the proper gas level for setting the float.  I usually only replace the bottom two as they can't be seen when the carb is installed and they tend to be the ones that leak.  

4.  The throttle shaft tends to wear badly as it is a brass shaft running in a bronze body.  Because of the pressure of the economizer arm pressing the shaft sideways every time the throttle closes, the hole for the shaft wears off center causing an air leak--too lean mixture--especially at idle.  If the wear is bad enough the engine will not idle at all because the vacuum is not high enough to draw fuel from the idle circuit.   

My solution:  I manufacturer new throttle shafts from hard Silicon Bronze and use Bronze bushings in the body.  

5. The economizer arm, which runs from the bottom of the throttle arm to the economizer valve, has a small roller which rusts easily and sticks.  It is usually worn flat and is not opening the economizer valve far enough. 

My Solution:   I replace the roller and pin with a Stainless steel shoulder bolt and a new steel roller so it will align itself to the correct angle of the throttle plate.  It opens the economizer port correctly.  


I have three lathes, two milling machines and a variety of specialty tools and shop made jigs for working on the OF's and other carbs.  I also have taps and dies in the special sizes required for carburetor work, 1/4 x 32, 5/16 x 32, 28 & 24, 1/2 x 24, 5/8 x 24, 10 x 24, 10 x 32, 8 x 32, 8 x 24,6 x 32, 6 x 40, 4 x 40, etc. 

           Following are the prices for rebuilding your carb, outright sale of carbs, etc. 

These prices are current January 1, 2015 and are subject to change.

Rebuilt OF
outright sale.   No core needed.  $600 with standard polish, $750 with show polish. 
$20 insured
shipping.  I usually have two or three in stock and ready to ship. 

With trade in of good, rebuildable core with most major parts included.  $450 & $550. 

Rebuild your OF with all major parts included. 
Rebuild includes a modern needle and seat, new throttle shaft &  bushings if needed,  cleaning passages & jets, upgrading of economizer roller, all steel parts powder coated, all screws replaced with stainless steel screws or Allen head cap screws, new drain cock, test running on a stock T engine, etc.   Missing parts or parts that cannot be repaired or restored are in addition to the basic cost.   Bear in mind that the newest of these carburetors are over 80 years old and that while restoration will make it perform like new, only so much can be done with cosmetic damage.  Many of them rubbed the frame and have major dents where they were whacked to free a sticking float, many of the float caps have cracks or dents, etc.  I will do what I can do with your carb but there is a limit to what can be done with prior damage.  If you want better parts than you send I will upgrade at extra cost.  I will guarantee that it will run as expected and will not leak.   Carb is adjusted and should be ready to bolt on your T and run with only minor tweaking. Show quality rebuild includes the best parts I can find, polished & buffed to a high lustre, etc.   Many people who have bought these have them on display rather than running them on their T.  A stand is available for display.    



Standard rebuild and polish $350 + $20 insured return shipping
Standard rebuild, all parts powder coated black including carb body and float cover $400 + $20 shipping. 
Show rebuild and polish $550 +20 insured return shipping


Display Stand, your choice, Walnut or Alder (dark or light) $35 + $10 shipping

Turnaround time is usually 2-3 weeks but may be longer depending on how many rebuilds are ahead of yours & how busy I am with other business.  This is a part time business. 

All carbs sold outright or rebuilt include a copy of the original Stromberg operator's manual with additional pages showing parts, instuctions for installation, adjusting tips, etc. 

Parts:  Parts prices include shipping.

Modern needle and seat set with adapter.  Will work in all Stromberg carbs with screw in type of seat. Replaces your leaking needle and seat in 15 minutes.  Remove the float bowl cover, remove the old seat with a 13/16ths socket, move the float support to the adapter, install with 2 gaskets provided.  Remove the needle rod from the float cover, replace with the new needle rod, adjust according to included instructions, no more flooding.  No core or exchange necessary. 
$55 


Modern needle and seat set with adapter + rebuilding of your good float cover including  replacement of weight pins. Includes instructions for installing in your carburetor and adjusting float height.   $110 +  Just remove the float cover and send it.  Same deal if you want to send the entire carb and have me install the adapter and seat.  No test run or adjustments other than float height. 

Idle jet.
  New manufacture with correctly sized idle passage. Includes the tiny gasket that is necessary for correct idle.     $35  

Main jet Used, with correct sealing ring and gasket.  $50

Float cover cap.  New manufacture     $20 

Float cover, used, rebuilt with new steel pins for trouble free operation.  $55 


Throttle arm & economizer actuator.  Laser cut copy of original.  $100   

Economizer arm with roller.  Not exact copy of original but close.   $35  

Cleaning wires  Set of 6 cleaning wires for getting into the passages and cleaning with damaging the threads or changing the jet sizes.  FREE with any parts order or rebuild if you ask.  These are actually guitar strings which are the best thing I have ever found for cleaning jets.  They are tough, don't enlarge the sizing of the holes like Acetelyne tip cleaners do and are free as I save the old string every time I change strings on one of my guitars. 

Instruction book as described above    $25  postpaid

For rebuilding, send the carb with a check or money order to the address on the Home page. 

For outright purchase, please call to make sure I have one available or what the time frame will be.  In 2008, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012 I sold several just before Christmas. 

Holley NH 
Outright sale $225 + $12.50 shipping 
As good or better than new, all parts replaced as needed, bead blasted to bare metal, powder coated (outside of bowl only) etc., etc.  Credit for good core, $25
I usually have one or two of these ready to ship.  Both the swivel top and two hole top are the same price.  I use the correct type needle and seat with a modern Viton tip on the needle.  I do not use the Grose Jet needle and seat. 

Rebuild $175+ $7.50 shipping. Includes new needle & seat, new main jet, new or excellent used drain plug, new data plate, new metering rod, new throttle & choke shafts, etc., etc. All parts powder coated except inside of bowl.  Standard color is black.

U & J  
Depending on the model of your U & J and what it needs I may be able to restore it.  You will need to send it and have me look at it.  The bowl is usually the biggest problem.  They are virtually all cracked and the Holley G bowl does not fit even though it looks like it should.  They are a great running carb, especially good for Speedsters, but there are no parts available so I have to make whatever parts are missing.  I do have some parts carbs and can machine the carb to accept a steel bowl.  

Kingston 4 Ball
I have rebuilt a couple dozen 4 ball carbs and have a modern needle and seat adapter for them.  The old ones all leak and there is not way to make them stop leaking without installing a new needle and seat.  I have new brass balls of the correct size and weight and can make new brass or steel throttle shafts and choke shafts for them.  Floats and the float valve/needle & seat are usually the two problems with them--I have fixes for both.  There is a page for 4 & 5 balls carbs, click on the link at the top of this page to go to that page.   

Other Carburetor rebuilds Evaluated on a piece by piece basis.  Some I can do and some I can't.  I DO NOT rebuild Stomberg LF due to most of them missing parts or being impossible to get apart.  Call or email about others and we'll talk about it. 

For parts, send a check or money order to the address on the home page and specify what parts you need. 

Warranty:  I will repair, replace or refund until you are happy.  Bear in mind that these are 80+ year old carburetors going on engines of varying quality.  I test run them on a stock engine.  Your results may vary on your engine but I will do whatever I can to get your T to run as well as possible. 

If you want to bring your T to Helena and have me install your new or rebuilt carb and adjust it on your engine I will do that at no charge. 

No unhappy customers so far. 

Yes, I am the guy who has been rebuilding Ruckstells for the last several years.  I have several used Ruckstells and will either rebuild one for you or sell you the parts you need to turn your differential into a Ruckstell. 

I am no longer doing Ruckstell work but do have some parts to sell.  Call me.

I also have some other Model T parts.  Call or email. 

Questions, give me a call.

Thanks,
Stan Howe
4433 Red Fox Dr
Helena, Mt 59602
406-443-5658
406-949-3448 cell
stanhowemt@aol.com


I now have in production a needle and seat kit for the larger Stromberg bronze carburetors.  Installation is easy & should take less than one hour from start to finish. There is no need to remove the carburetor from the engine for most installations. It uses the same Viton tipped needle and seat as the OF conversion.  See the pictures at the bottom of this page. 

THERE ARE TWO VERSIONS OF THIS KIT.  STYLE 2 IS LESS EXPENSIVE BUT DOES NOT LOOK AS AUTHENTIC AND MAY NOT FIT WELL ON CARS WITH THE CARBURETOR UNDER A CENTRAL INTAKE MANIFOLD SUCH AS THE EARLY V-8 LINCOLNS.  STYLE 3 USES THE ORIGINAL STYLE GAS STRAINER OR BANJO AND CANNOT BE TOLD FROM ORIGINAL FROM OUTSIDE.  SCROLL DOWN TO SEE IT. 

Price:  STYLE 2: Per kit  $75.00 + $5.00 shipping in the US.  $10 worldwide.  The kit  includes the needle and seat, float rod, all gaskets & a connection T with drain to replace the banjo style connection.  An illustrated installation and adjustment guide is also included. 


This is the conversion kit ready to install.  The needle and rod are not shown in this picture but are included with the kit. 




This is the kit with all parts.  The standard kit includes a Viton tipped needle for sure sealing.  The seat is .110 which should be plenty of flow for nearly all cars.  A .145 needle is available which is easily installed should the .110 flow not be enough. 
 
You will need to use your float support and float to install this. 




Here it is installed on the carb.  Various terminations are available depending on how your gas line hooks up.  This is the standard version. 




Here are 4 of the standard 1/4 inch pipe thread terminations attached to the standard design seat and three of the optional 1/8 pipe thread terminations attached to the common adapter.   The 1/4 inch set includes and adapter for 1/4 to 1/8 pipe. 

By using a Tee to terminate the gas line a drain is also incorporated.  The Tee can be mounted with the drain down and the inlet at the side which makes a small sediment/water collection area that is easily drained. 

The various parts used to make up this kit are available individually.  Please scroll down to the bottom of this page. 


This is the part that is replaced.  The Stromberg float rod is also replaced. 



Here is the seat installed in an O-3.  All installations are basically the same. 



STYLE 3 PRICE $100  WITH BANJO $125

YOU MUST USE YOUR BANJO FROM YOUR CARBURETOR OR BUY ONE IN ADDITION TO THE KIT IF YOURS IS NOT USABLE OR MISSING. 

THERE ARE THE PARTS FURNISHED WITH THE STYLE 3 KIT.  IT ALSO INCLUDES AN ILLUSTRATED PARTS SHEET AND DETAILED INSTRUCTION SHEET. 



Here is the adapter partially installed.  The tapered nut is unique to this style. 



This is the installation complete.  From outside the carburetor it is undetectable.  This is all new manufacture, no old parts are used in the latest version.  This prototype as shown in this and some other pictures used some of the old parts, the production version does not. 

These are in stock and ready to ship. 



PARTS

Some are specific to the conversion kit and some are for various other applications. 

1/4 pipe to 1/8 pipe adapter   $2.00



1/4 x 1/4 connector  $2.50



1/4 x 1/4 x 1/4 brass Tee      $4.50



1/8 x 1/8 connector   $2.00 1/8 x 1/8 x 1/8 Tee with male side connector.  $4.50 
Also shown is a float cap for all Stromberg carbs.  $20.00  Economizer arm pivot bolt  $7.50



This is the 8-32 thread 1/4 hex nut for the top of the float rod.  $5.00


This is just a phot of a group of newly made rod nuts. 



Stromberg float, used  $40.00



Stromberg float bowl cover, used.  $50.00



Viton tipped needle and seat. .110  $12.00       .145   $15.00



Gasket set for conversion.  $1.00



Float cap, these are new manufacture with the correct 7/16 x 24 thread.  $20.00




This is a kit for repairing the plunger balls and spring in the screw adjustments.  Comes with 4 balls and two springs for repairing main jet and idle screws.  $5.00


Choke stop.  Note that this is a good used one, I am manufacturing new ones but don't have a picture.  New are exact replicas of this.  $35.00



Choke return spring.  $5.00



This is the choke actuator mechanism.  Note that there are two different arms.  The top arm is for the late design carb with no gas cleaner, the lower one is for the earlier carb with the gas cleaner.   $35.00 for the U shaped piece and one arm. 

Throttle shaft, newer design for easier installation.  Complete with adjustment collar, two nylon washers and two screws for mounting plate.  This is machined from Silicon bronze and is .005 over .250, the standard body hole.  $35.00

Choke shaft, newer design for easier installation.  There are two designs, one for the gas cleaner model and one for the later model.  Specify which one you need.  $35.00

Throttle arm, new manufacture, close to original look but not exact.  This is an excellent used one for illustration. 




Economizer arm.  This is an original that has been powder coated.  New manufacture ones are similar but not a perfect copy of the original.  It comes with the stainless steel roller as shown here.   $30.00





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